50/50| A conversation with Yulia Y. & Luca Nichetto

Yulia Yadryshnikova is a Fashion Designer and pattern maker, Madrid Based. After her studies at La Escuela de Diseno y Moda Goymar and IED Madrid, she started working in collaboration with different fashion designers to develop their collections, and as Designer for her own capsule collections.

Luca Nichetto is an International Designer Venice and Stockholm Based. He graduated in Industrial Design at the University Institute of Architecture of Venice (IUAV) and in 2006 he founded his first Venetian studio, where he advanced his expertise in product design. In 2011 he opened a second practice in Stockholm, Sweden. This is when he began to move beyond the object, reaching to interior design and architecture.

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Collaboration between them resulted into 50/50_Episode II. A capsule collection that combined fashion and furniture design was showed at the New York Design Week as a part of the De La Espada collection, Portuguese company that collaborated with Nichetto since last year.

Enquire asked them some questions to understand how the project was born.

Let’s start from the beginning: How did you start your respective careers?

Yulia: When I was studying at IED Madrid, I developed several ideas for garments of my own design. Then those ideas became a basis for my first capsule collection called 1Y hat I have produced during my first year of studying patternmaking at La Escuela de Diseno y Moda Goymar. I think it can be considered as an official start of my career as pattern maker and designer if not taking into account those dresses I had designed and sewed in my childhood.

Luca: I began my professional career in 1999 by designing my first projects in Murano glass for Salviati. That same year I began my collaboration with Foscarini, for whom I not only designed products, but also worked as a consultant on new materials research and product development (2001–2003). In 2006 I launched my own design firm, Nichetto&Partners, which specializes in industrial design and offers its services as a design consultancy. In 2011 I also opened another professional office in Stockholm, Sweden.

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How did your collaboration start?

Yulia: Our collaboration wouldn’t happen without our friend Lera Moiseeva who showed my work to Luca for the first time. Also, it may sound commonplace but thanks to Instagram! It became a venue for our further contact and mutual interest that helped us understand we see things in a similar way in terms of design and fashion.

Luca: Our common friend Lera Moiseeva showed me Yulia’s work and I was very impressed by the collections she have made. when I started to know better Yulia and her way of working it came natual to propose to her to collaborate for my collection with De La Espada.

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Fashion and furniture have always been connected. What do you think about the linking between them?

Yulia: We all use clothes and furniture every day, and ideally we would like to see all these things around us both beautiful and comfortable. For myself as fashion designer and pattern maker both are equally important. When looking at furniture piece, I also expect to discover both qualities in it. I believe Luca totally shares this attitude – all his works prove it without any doubt: they are beautiful and comfortable.

Luca: As a furniture designer I have always tried not to be too much influence by that part of the fashion industry that often creates “seasonal” products with a temporary appeal. Working with Ylia I have, nevertheless, re-evaluated the idea that a direct interaction between fashion and furniture, if well planned, can instead generate hight quality products, that are destined to last for long time.

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50/50 Episode II Capsule Collection. Can you explain us in detail how is it structured?

Yulia: My works presented on this exhibition can be divided into two parts with different stories behind. The first one including three dresses and the Stanley’s sofa covering was inspired by my childhood memories. Each morning I had run to our loose-leaf calendar to turn over the “yesterday” page and welcome a new day. But instead of merely turning it over I usually folded it in some particular way depending on my mood, so each day I was living had certain shape. The second part consists of three coats which are actually replicas from my earlier capsule collection. They are made from the same fabric as the sofa covering. I found this cloth perfectly suitable for my renewed vision of these coats.

The entire set of garments presented can serve as a kind of illustration to my creative process: silhouette comes to me along with the initial idea while all specific lines and details appear in my head on later stages during the process of pattern making and working with fabric.

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Luca: The 50/50 collection, for my brand “LucaNichetto” produced by the Portuguese De La Espada, is a modern take on Italian furniture design, where luxury is in the details. Designed in the spirit of the great architects of the 1950’s, the collection is conceived as a complete environment. With De La Espada, we decided to revealed the products throughout the year at special exhibitions that draw parallels between different craft disciplines.

The first product, Elysia, was introduced in February 2014 at the renowned tailor shop, Bauer Atelier in Stockholm, where fine upholstery and expert tailoring intersected. For the occasion, one Elysia was upholstered with a fabric that is normally used for making suits.

During the New York Design Week the Episode II of the 50/50 collection introduced two new products: Stanley sofa, and Laurel Coffee and Side Tables alongside of the capsule collection that Yulia designed and made for the exhibition.

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The New York Design Week is recently terminated. Any impressions?

Yulia: It was my first time when I participated in the NY Design Week, and it was highly interesting. Many talented people with a plenty of impressive projects gathered together create very creative and inspiring atmosphere. Speaking of the impressions from our exhibition, the first thing coming to my mind – that was very beautiful! The second – for me as a fashion pattern maker it was really exciting and challenging experience to work in a product design area. I had to think in a different way when creating garments from fabrics used for furniture cover for decades or making a dress to be used as furniture cover itself. And, last but not least, it was a constant pleasure to work together with Luca and his team as well as with De La Espada team.

Luca: I have found,the last NY design week very interesting, and I have see a lot ofnice products with hight quality standard. It was a good occasion to meet up with a lot of friends and share with them ideas as well as some glasses of wine.

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What are your future plans?

Yulia: I hope our collaboration with Luca will continue – we are currently planning some projects together but it is too early to announce them yet. When it comes to my plans for near future, I’m developing a new capsule collection and also working on creating costumes for some New York performance artist. My plans also include further collaborations with product designers since I really liked to apply my fashion approach and skills for projects in product design sphere.

Luca: I am really enjoyed working with Yulia as I liked working with Bauer Atelier in Stockholm and with Nendo in 2013, and I hope our collaboration will continue in the future. These collaborations made me realize that nowadays it is very important to connect different disciplines, as fashion, graphic, art, architecture ect ect, to be able to create a product/exhibition/project that everyone can relate and appreciate.