When i-D fills your brand in its digital archive, it means that you’s got on the top. This is what happened to Graeme Gaughan, the creative who is hidden behind the London label Tourne de Transmission, since 2010. And just from i-Donline.com interview, we’ll start to know him and the concept of SS2013 collection. Title: Destinations.
Hi Graeme, how are you?
I am good, it’s sunny in London finally!
Reading the i-D article, you surprised us because you gave us impression that you’ve so much and uncontrollable energy; you’re always on the move: for example, you decided to run the Athens Classic Marathon and you said that you’d like to learn how to ride a motorbike! So we ask you: does your mind run as quick as your body? How do you like to define yourself? Just a designer or a fashion PR? An adventurer or simply an enthusiastic about the life? Where does your fashion attitude come from?
I wouldn’t call myself a designer at all. A creative yes, as this is a broad term and I work across a few different visual platforms. I actually studied sonic art and music production in London which I guess has some bearing on my work. For TDT I take much more from art in general. The label’s original handwriting was inspired by vintage newspapers and images sourced from old books stores all over Europe. But this idea has now developed beyond this and we use our own images and photography lot more now. Graphic Design has been something I have obsessed over since I was a teenager, stemming from skating (board graphics and tees) and album sleeves. Peter Saville‘s work with New Order in particular is always in a constant source inspiration when we start collections.
If you are always on the move, when do you find the time to your double work and your many projects? Maybe, under the shower, or do your creations born while you’re sleeping, like Karl Lagerfeld? Talking of big names, is there someone that you particularly like, that you consider like a “mentor of the fashion”? Do you follow trends of the moment when you wear yourself?
I guess what I’m wearing or into at a certain point does have a small influence on TDT collections. But it’s always more of the statement or story that has more of a bearing on the collections prints. For SS14 I’m looking at those first holidays without the parents, youth without the normal boundaries. And within this the way these holiday patterns can change destinations… not always for the better. Not that I feel particularly negative about it but our collections do have a darker theme or humour to them. Our ideas come from many places, I feel it’s more about being able to remember the ideas you have and file them in your brain so you do get to act on them… this normally happens whilst I’m riding my bike or running.
You started to design t-shirts for your band. What’s changed now? Do you feel improved and which things would you like to improve in? Where would you like to imagine yourself in 2023?
I would like to think we have improved in quite a few areas. Design, finish, quality… I certainly hope so. It’s weird though as sometimes the pieces you love yourself are not the best sellers so you always have that at the back of your mind. I would like to improve our outerwear offer which is still in its infancy… but it’s getting there now. I guess by 2023 I can only hope to still be happy and healthy, but from a TDT perspective to be still relevant…
Talking of your SS2013, what is its title or its main theme? It includes not just t-shirts, but also unisex sweatshirts, tracksuits, shirts and shoes. Your design seems very basic, but we’re sure that behind these simple lines there is much more: why did you decide to use just neutral colours? What is your rapport with prints, shapes and materials? When you’re creating your clothing, what is your starting point?
The SS13 collection was called Destinations, I hadn’t managed to have a holiday and was really needing one… We were also looking through loads of vintage tourism posters which were a big influence in terms of statements and colours. We usually stick to a monochromatic theme to base each collection and look to accent it with one or two tones. The styles we create are based around classic sweats, tees and pants, but we may change sticking and seam details, add darts or over proportion certain parts of the garment to give it a subtle point of difference. Prints have always (and still are) the focus to each collection. This is our narrative and a way to express ourselves further with what is I guess quite basic garments.
On your website – www.tournedetransmission.com – you say that you want to combine imagines and words to create a message. What is the result message for this collection?
SS13 was the state of mind when you are near to burn out and need to take a break… you become vacant within your own mind. It’s almost counterproductive to stay and work when you are really needing to take a little time out… So it’s more about that zombie period, where you just follow a daily format without any real clarity… if that makes sense.
And you? Have you received the message? Enquire has and even we would reply to it. To do that, we can go to Venice in Bugie Des Fumei store or on the global shop-online Hypebeast (hypebeast.com/tags/tourne-de-transmission): buon tours!